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Milovice
Under the sign of Soviet Empire
Milovice area has a long military tradition. During the First Czechoslovak Republic, created imediately after First World War, several units of the newborn army were accomodated there. Then, Second World War came, and the Germans tookover. From 1938 to 1945 Luftwaffe had a few units stationed in Milovice air base, but it was after the Russian invasion of 1968 that Milovice strategic importance reached its peak. There was established the headquarter of Soviet Central Group of Forces in a bunker thay we may have the chance to visit.
We will arrive to Milovice village by train, approximately one hour after our departure from Prague. The walk to the military perimeter it's easy and short. Once there we will start our exploration. We will spot a few buildings and bunkers as well as repairing facilities.
After this preliminar contact, we will cross the airstrip, where twenty years ago the last Mig-29 took-off, back to Russia. The hangars are locked, but we can walk the grounds where the 114th Regiment of Interceptors used to be stationed.
 Soviet fighter Mig-29. Similar to those which were based in Milovice until 1991
Then we will start exploring the surrounding facilities. It's a labyrinth of structures, houses, and office spaces. In a wall we see the remainings of all the festive shooting from the day russians left. Further ahead, an impressive pile of empty bottles of vodka and old documents typed in cyrilic alphabet.
In other places, the vestiges are more personal: newspaper cut-outs, wall inscriptions mentioning western "institutions" like Coke-Cola and Bon Jovi. Finally we will arrive to one of the most impressive spots: a residencial area, with four storey buildings. Everything is wide open. We can freely explore each individual apartment. We almsot can feel the "ghosts" there. Under the wallpaper we find old russian newspapers, used as isolation material. Eventually, some personal belongings may be found, like teethbrushes.
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| Pictures of the 48th Motorized Division, in Milovice, during the 70s |
After the residental area we can visit the social center, a devastated theater, a gymnasium. From here we will walk to the spot where the headquarter was located. We will spot some residential blocks, but these were totally renovated, looking brand new, still waiting for buyers. Then, it's the countryside. Fields of flowers, quietness. A small hideout for deers hunters. Finally we arrive to the last military area we will be visiting. Sometimes people play paintball there, and in that case we should stay away. If the area is safe we will enter the bunker once used by the headquarter of Soviet Central Group of Forces.
Once in our way back, we will walk trough an impressive forest, and finally we will cross the airstrip for the last time, where we will able to imagine the deafening noise of jet engines of three Mig-29 simultaneously taking-off. Just before taking the train, we may stop - if you wish so - in a local pub where we may be able to enjoy a fresh beer and some pickled cheese (the Czech "hermelin" delicassy).
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